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| The Gaggia Baby Twin reviewed |
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| Written by colin newell |
| Friday, 09 November 2007 11:01 |
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The Gaggia Baby Twin reviewed by the 'crew!
This loaner came at a time when I had been drinking drip coffee and Aeropress brews pretty much non-stop for months. Ok, so I only drink 2 cups a day... day after day. So I was ready for espresso, good espresso. Out of the box
Form and Function
The Gaggia Baby Twin is well built. The overall fit and finish is tight without too much plastic or screws showing. One gets the immediate sense that the Gaggia Baby Twin is a solidly built unit that is going to last and last - with the requisite care of course. So let's get started.
First Shots - They were good One of the advantages of looking over lots of different machines (and getting to play with them all) is - well, you start to get a sense of how well they will perform... quickly and without too much fussing around. I sympathize with the average consumer taking delivery of anything this sophisticated. I mean, it is rocket science and we should not forget that. And the beauty of opening the box for the first time with a modicum of respect for the process... is that if you screw up (and you will) you should not beat yourself up about it. Let's face it - Home espresso is a messy and its finicky business. But if you are fed up with constantly emptying your wallet or purse for those lattes and cappuccinos - the headaches you are about to experience will be worth it.
So. How did I do first time out of the gate with the Gaggia Baby Twin? With some fresh espresso beans and 2 good grinders; The Baratza Virtuoso and the Rancilio Rocky - I managed to get very tasty shots of espresso from the word go (note the picture at the top of this page). These espresso shots would be perfect for any latte, cappuccino or other specialty coffee drinks. As straight espresso it was pretty good (as good as any espresso from any Gaggia or Solis unit that I have ever used). The shots were not as absurdly intense as those from the Rancilio Silvia or the ECM Giotto - and this is not surprising. The shots are hot (the right temperature) and properly extracted. Top marks overall. The Gaggia Baby Twin has 2 "Boilers" - well not quite. It has the requisite boiler for brewing espresso and a thermoblock for generating steam. A thermoblock is not a boiler. There was a line of espresso machines that appeared on the market last Christmas (I think) that were solely powered by thermoblock units - and this is bad. The thermoblock was never a good design for espresso machines - they are insanely sensitive to hard water and block (or scale) up faster than a business-man on a diet of french fries. So it is with a bit of trepidation when I see a thermoblock used anywhere near an espresso machine - I have to be honest here. Ok. So what about the steam? Well, on my first attempt I made a double shot for 2 cappuccino and about 16 ounces of milk for the foam - and yes, maybe 16 ounces of milk is a little unfair for starters. Nonetheless, the steam production was somewhat anemic with this volume. I think it took me about 45s to 1 minute (maybe longer) to get 16 fluid ounces of milk up to 145 degrees (F)... which is not hot enough... but my patience was running thin. The double shot was flawless (I used fresh espresso from Discovery Coffee Victoria) and the microfoam was acceptable. The overall cappuccino experience was okay even though the beverage was a tad cool (brewed for immediate consumption as they say!) Foaming it The Gaggia Baby Twin uses a thermoblock unit for creating steam for specialty coffee beverages like Latte and Cappuccino. As I said previously, I am not a bit fan of the thermoblock concept. It is very sensitive to scale build-up and needs a diet of filtered or soft water always - and regular de-scaling.
What I discovered after a few milk sessions (I was actually using lactose-reduced Natrel 2% for my tests) was that one had to be careful how much milk one tried to steam/foam all at the same time. My first attempt at foaming 16 fluid ounces of milk was disappointing. The manual stipulates: Do not steam beyond 60s in duration. Gee. Thanks for the warning Gaggia. I found that 8 fluid ounces or so was kind of the upper limit if you wanted to bring cold milk up to 155 degrees (F) within the requisite amount of time. One important disclaimer about the Gaggia Baby Twin - Although this unit has 2 "heating" units - a boiler and a thermoblock, you can only brew or steam milk. Not both at the same time. It only has one pump and the pump cannot really do both at the same time - at least from my observations. Appreciate the extras
3-way: The Gaggia Baby Twin has some extras on the inside that should be noted. One is the 3-way solenoid. What the 3-way does is: After the brew cycle completes, a valve opens and releases the pressure within the brew group and diverts it (and some waste-water) through a tube and into the drip tray. This is very handy because it allows for a quick reload of the portafilter and subsequent shots of espresso. Without the 3-way solenoid, there is latent pressure in the portafilter assembly and removal of the portafilter (to reload or refill) results in a pressure release - messy and potentially hot! Unfortunately with the sample unit I received - the 3-way solenoid was not working. Chances are a wire or something fell off during shipping. I am returning the test unit tomorrow and in a few days I will know what went wrong with the sample Gaggia. Programming: The Gaggia Baby Twin has 2 button positions that are fully programmable. They are volumetric settings. It means you can program the exact volume of each brew cycle. Very handy if you have 2 people in the household that prefer different shots for different beverages. Or, you might be brave enough to tackle single baskets (good luck!) and need to have very low volume programmed in. Hey. It is all good. One of the brew button positions also features a pre-infusion cycle - a brief blast of hot water before the primary brew cycle kicks in. Does it make a difference? Probably. Uber-serious machines like the Synesso and the La Marzocco in your favorite cafes use a pre-infusion cycle during the brew period. Judgment and conclusions
The Gaggia Baby Twin is a solidly built unit for those that want a bit more freedom from the manual ritual of home espresso preparation. The touch panel system with programmable brew volume is very nice and does free up the user to concentrate on other things - if only for 25s or so! Pre-infusion: I think it is a nice touch and you might actually be able to taste the difference. I liked the overall fit and finish and bulk of a machine that has a long running legacy. Gaggia still is a name that I trust. I did not like the inclusion of the thermoblock unit for steam production. Seeing that I cannot brew and steam at the same time, I would have rather just lived with the single boiler and done some "temperature surfing" between brew and steam cycles. This is just me. I like machines that have a 3-way solenoid. This one does but it was not working. We will find out why. In the end analysis, I give the Gaggia Baby Twin two thumbs up with one or two small reservations. Colin Newell lives and works in Victoria, B.C. Canada - and writes about cafe culture. His consumer reviews of home barista equipment have been a staple of this internet site for over ten years. {mos_sb_discuss:23}
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